Potato Gnocchi
Old potatoes—those with wrinkled skin and dense white flesh—are best from October to March, after curing in storage, which concentrates the starch. In summer, new potatoes, too watery, make the dough sticky and difficult to work.
Three ingredients, no hidden secrets—just the technique of recognizing when the dough is ready and the courage to use minimal flour. Perfect gnocchi aren't learned, they're felt under your hands.
Ingredients (for 4 people)
- 800 g of old white-fleshed potatoes (floury, rich in starch)
- About 180g of type 00 flour (plus more for the pastry board)
- Salt to taste.
The calories listed (~330 kcal/serving) refer to plain gnocchi, without sauce. Adding butter and sage adds about 75 kcal; adding ragù or tomato sauce varies depending on the recipe.
Preparation
— The potatoes —
1. Boil the potatoes with their skins on. Place the whole, unpeeled potatoes in a pot of cold water. Starting with cold, not boiling, water is crucial: it ensures even cooking from the inside out, preventing the outside from falling apart while the center is still tough. Bring to a boil and cook for 35-40 minutes, depending on the size—check with a toothpick: it should fit through to the center without resistance. Large potatoes will cook unevenly: choose pieces of similar size, or cut larger ones in half before placing them in the water.
2. Peel while hot. Drain the potatoes and peel them immediately, while they're still hot—the skins come off in one easy move with a small knife. Don't wait for them to cool: a cold potato retains more moisture, and moisture is the enemy of gnocchi. If necessary, cover them with a kitchen towel while you work.
3. Press into the flour. Spread half the flour on a pastry board. Immediately pass the hot potatoes through a potato ricer or food mill, dropping them directly onto the flour: the residual heat evaporates further moisture as they fall, and this makes all the difference. Don't use a blender or mixer—blend-ing the potatoes breaks down the starch cells and produces a sticky paste that's impossible to work.
— The dough —
4. Add the salt and begin to incorporate the flour. Sprinkle the mashed potatoes with a generous pinch of fine salt and sprinkle more flour on top. Using a spatula or scraper, begin to gather the mixture toward the center, then move on to your hands. The logic is this: incorporate the flour a little at a time, stopping as soon as the dough holds together and no longer sticks to your hands. The amount of flour indicated is a guideline—every potato absorbs flour differently. Using too much is the most common mistake: the gnocchi become tough and heavy.
5. Work briefly. Knead for no more than 1-2 minutes with quick, firm movements. Gnocchi don't require as much kneading as egg pasta—the more you knead, the more the gluten develops, and the more elastic and chewy the gnocchi become. As soon as the dough is homogeneous, smooth to the touch, and no longer sticks to the work surface, stop kneading. Shape into a compact ball.
— The shaping —
6. Cut out the loaves. Divide the dough into 6-8 equal portions. Take one piece at a time and roll it with your palms on a lightly floured surface, forming a long cylinder about 1.5 cm thick—the thickness of your little finger. Don't press too hard; the movement should be light and gradual, stretching from the center outward. If the loaf breaks or cracks, the dough is too dry; if it flattens and sticks, it's too moist.
7. Cut the gnocchi. Line up the loaves parallel and cut them with a wide-bladed spatula or a non-serrated knife into pieces about 2 cm thick. A clean cut prevents the edges from being crushed. As you cut, spread them out on a floured surface without overlapping.
8. Rigate (optional but recommended). Slide each gnocchi onto the tines of a fork or a ridged cutting board, pressing lightly with your thumb as you roll it: the classic groove will form on one side and a dimple on the other. It's not just aesthetically pleasing—the grooves hold the sauce, and the internal dimple will cook more evenly.
— Cooking —
9. Boil in plenty of water. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Drop the gnocchi in a few at a time—not all at once, as this will lower the temperature and cause them to stick together. The gnocchi are ready when they rise to the surface and float for about 30 seconds: this indicates the starch has gelatinized and the cooking is complete. Remove them with a slotted spoon and transfer them directly to your chosen sauce.
10. Season and serve immediately. Gnocchi don't wait: they need to be seasoned and served immediately. The classic sauce is butter and sage: melt 40g of butter in a large pan with a few fresh sage leaves until lightly golden, add the drained gnocchi, swirl for a minute, and serve with a sprinkling of grated Parmigiano Reggiano.
Important notes
- The choice of potatoes is everything: Old, floury, white-fleshed potatoes are needed—varieties such as Bintje, Kennebec, or the common "gnocchi" potato. New or yellow-fleshed potatoes contain too much water and make the dough soft and difficult to shape.
- Less flour is better: The 180g amount is a rough guide. Add the flour gradually, stopping as soon as the dough no longer sticks to your hands. Every 100g of additional flour equals a harder gnocchi.
- Don't use the blender: Blending potatoes breaks down the starch cells, producing a sticky paste. Use a potato masher or a food mill with large holes.
- Do the cooking test: Before cooking the entire batch, drop one into boiling water. If it falls apart, add a little flour to the mixture; if it's perfect, proceed.
- To store them: Uncooked gnocchi can be frozen directly on the floured tray, then transferred to bags. They can be cooked directly from the freezer without thawing, adding a minute of cooking time.
The Garganega brings an almondy and floral note that marries the cooking butter, while the minerality of the volcanic soil of the Soave Classico balances the starchy softness of the gnocchi without overpowering it.
Enjoy your meal!
